I have a 91 Mustang 5.0 installed in a kit car. It seems to run fine but the catalytic converters get red (literally) hot in under 3 minutes. I have checked the timing (10 degrees BTC), changed the distributor and mass air flow sensor. Any suggestions on where else to look?
I am hoping you will be able to advise me on what else I can do to fix my problem. I have a 1993 Chevrolet Corisca, 6 cylinder 3.1 L MFI.One of the bolts that connects the overflow or is it a bypass from the water pump broke as I was removing it to change the worn gasket. I recently purchased this car from someone who has all the repair records. The water pump is fairly new. The bolt was either cross threaded or overtightened is my best guess, because the other bolt came out easily. I started to drill it out to use an easy-out when a guy in my neighborhood said he knew what to do to & could help me fix it. I was not able to watch him as carefully as I should have. He ended up slamming a tap beside the broken bolt & said he had fixed it & left. I was able to remove the tap & have been trying to drill out this bolt to no avail.
I have a 1990 Honda Accord that runs just fine. A few weeks ago I started noticing the tachometer bouncing around and the gears jerking. The mechanics said it was probably nothing, but then one night the car just stopped going in the middle of the road and the engine, oil, and battery light all came on. I turned off the car and a minute later turned it back on, and it started going again. This happened to me a few night later, but the mechanics again ran every diagnostic test they could and said they could find nothing wrong with my car. Do you have any idea what might be going on with my car?
I have a 1998 Dodge Neon with only 54,000 miles on it. Recently it started hesitating alot and now it stalls when turning corners, especially to the right. I took it to a local garage and they ran diagnostics and said I needed to take it to a Dodge dealer and have a new computer put in and flash programmed. I did that and yet, it continues to do the same thing when turning corners. I was then told to have the power steering pressure switch replaced. I did that as well. Low and behold, I still continue to have the problem with stalling and no one seems to know what the problem is. Can you offer any suggestions ?????
I was wondering if you could help me out with my car. I just had the motor rebuilt 8 mo ago and my problem is when I go to start my car in the mornings it makes this real loud ticking noise different from a lifter it is a lot harder and stronger that started about 3 weeks ago then the other day I hit a bump and it sounded like someone was taking a sledge hammer to my engine or something it is very loud you must turn the engine off and sit for a few minutes before it is ok again and it is starting to do it on every bump I I hit
1987 Toyota Corolla hatchback 85,000 miles (I am original owner, so I know history of car). Power steering went bad about a year ago, had the rack/pinion and pump replaced. Steering was on and off for the 6-month warranty period, then got progressively worse, so that last month it made noise on every turn of the steering wheel. It did not make any noise going straight ahead, just on the turns. Also noticed a few drops under the car (power steering fluid). Brought it to another repair shop and they replaced the hose, said it did not need a new pump. Charged $145 for the hose, and 2 hours labor to replace the hose. Altogether $265, plus tax. When I drove the car away, however, it now made a constant whirring noise – going straight ahead, without even turning. This noise was NOT present when I brought it in. Brought it back to the shop, who now said they had to replace the power steering pump and wanted to charge $235 more. Somehow I felt like I was being taken for a ride (no pun intended).
I have a 78 Ford Bronco and it whines like a baby. Pop the hood and a whistling sound is somewhere around the carb. I tightened down the carburetor bolts, performed an ether test, and plugged any unused vacuum ports. The Bronco runs great but the whistling noise is very noticeable at idle and is audible inside the cab.
Hi!!! Ok, I burned out my first clutch. I got it replaced by a mechanic on the side (not at a shop) When we started it up for the first time after the clutch was installed it sounded normal. After we got back from a test drive I noticed a weird noise coming from the engine. The check engine light didn’t even come on until the next day of driving. The night before, we had a very cold night (freezing) here in Texas it was around 28 degrees. I don’t know what could have happened to the engine it still runs strong. I’m thinking maybe there’s a spark plug that messed up or something, but I’m not too sure its safe to drive without messing it up. I don’t know if it’s because the car was sitting for a while without being turned on, then it went through the freeze (with antifreeze), or the clutch installation. I hear the noise when I turn it on but after it warms up there’s nothing. What do you think? Please respond A.S.A.P. and I appreciate everything!!!!!
hi. i am a girl, so repairing my car i think will cost me more… i drive a 2001 Spyder eclipse. with 65,000. Every where i call gives me a stupid number. i know you are busy, but ok what are the average prices to these things…. and i read your articles about reading in between the lines when comparing to dealers and like midas. 1. tune-ups….does this include oil changes. 2. 60,000 service 3. timing belt 4. serpentine belt 5. front end alignment I just need prices on average and also what I should be asking in terms of what it includes when being done
I have a Hyundai Amica, but the petrol gage is broken on it, how would I go about fixing this problem?