Guides To Repair Your Auto
Ken Marlborough is an expert and an established author and has contributed various articles on auto repair. He suggests some useful information on auto repair that help us a lot.
Ken Marlborough is an expert and an established author and has contributed various articles on auto repair. He suggests some useful information on auto repair that help us a lot.
Ken Marlborough is an expert and an established author. He has contributed various articles on automotive industry. For more information please visit http://www.i-autorepair.com/ and http://www.i-autoparts.com/
Ken Marlborough is an expert author and has contributed various articles on automotive industry. For more information please visit http://www.i-autorepair.com/
I have 1994 Mazda Protege car with 125,160 miles. I have at least three major repair issues now and a host of other things I believe have been caused or exacerbated by half-done repair.
I was wondering if you could guide me to a Lexus Certified Mechanic (or a source of one) whom I can request to accompany me before I buy a used non-certified Lexus GX 470.
I just had the upper and lower intake gaskets replaced, water pump and thermostat replaced, which cost me around $900. The problem is after having the car for 2 days, I noticed a slight click (not very obvious, but not present before repairs). After driving maybe 50 miles, the car cuts off while driving. I check oil and it looks dirty. Car will crank but after about a minute cuts off. Something seems fishy. What could be the explanation?
The “honest” mechanic got my attention because right now, I need an answer to a question pretty quick and essentially it is a yes/no type of answer.Technical particulars: I have a 1991 3.1 Buick Regal VIN T MPFI vehicle with a emission hose routing configuration of LBP. It appears GM in their wisdom made at least 15 different vacuum hose routing configuration from 1990 1994 for the Regal (also includes Chevy’s Lumina). Anyway, here is the question. To change out the “vacuum harness” (that’s what the mechanic call it, I haven’t found a vacuum harness part) you have to remove the upper intake manifold. Is this true? Is this what GM recommends? I have the vacuum diagram and it looks like to me you don’t have remove the upper intake manifold to install new hoses. Another part that was found bad was the vacuum connection part that plugs into the throttle body. Two of the three hose ports had long longitudinal cracks on the underside of the port. The reason I’m asking is because the mechanic took the upper intake manifold off and snapped off two of the bolts. He wants me to pay extra for drilling them out and installing helicoils. My position is he didn’t need to take the upper intake manifold off to replace the vacuum hoses. So, we are in a dispute and it looks like I’ll have to do the repair I towed the vehicle home. The only hose that looks a little tricky to get to is the one going to the map sensor, but it seems to be accessible to me without removing the upper intake manifold. So, what do you think?
I have an 1989 Ford Taurus Station wagon that needs it’s V-belt replaced. I am not exactly sure what that is, how urgent the repairs are needed, or what to expect in terms of cost of repairs. Is this a major repair job? Thanks you in advance for your response
I have a question about my SUV’s engine. don’t know if you can answer this kind of questions. I have a Mitsubishi Montero Sport 1998 It overheated and have to replace the engine. the engine was already burning a lot of oil. It had 215,000 miles. I am planning on repair it because the whole truck still in good conditions and I like it. I heard that an engine from the same truck Mitsubishi Montero Sport but a model 2003 will work in this truck. this engine from this 2003 model is in real good conditions. low mileage. Or it will be better to just rebuilt my original engine.
Here’s my dilemma. I drive a 1993 Pontiac Grand Am (V6, 3.3L) and I’ve noticed recently that I have very low oil pressure. When I first started noticing it, I continually checked my oil level, which has been consistantly fine, nowhere NEAR low. It finally has gotten to that point that when I accelerate, the highest it will go on the gauge is 60. When I’m braking, it’s practically at 0.