My mechanic says there is nothing to do about v. noisy front brakes for my VW Passat 1993. He says it’s the age of the car… I don’t know how to accept that there is nothing to do since the noise started out low and became louder over the last couple of weeks..to the point that it is cause for my concern. the brakes function physically excellently.
I have a 1986 VW scirocco 1.8 litre 8 valve I replaced the master cylinder, flex lines to the front calipers, calipers and rotors. Now my front brakes will not release. The master cylinder cap seems like it gets very tight as if there is allot of pressure building up. Any ideas what would cause this. Any advice is appreciated.
My wife drives a 2000 Oldsmobile Allero. Recently, it began making a grinding/scratching noise when driving at very slow speeds (slower than 10 mph or so) while both accelerating and decelerating. The noise is almost more noticeable from inside the car than out. She thinks it also occurs while turning right more frequently than while turning left.
I have a 1999 Oldsmobile Alero,Just replaced the Master Cylinder,and the mechanic told me that he did bleed the lines , when I drive and come to a stop light, with my foot on the brake it still slowly goes to the floor still, I thought that problem was solved,what else cloud it be? The fluid is leaving but we see no leak can you help,where is the brake fluid going?
I just purchased a brand new 2007 Audi A3 2.0T. The brakes squeak – noticeably – when coming to a full stop. They have done this from the first day I got the car and do so especially when going down a hill and coming to a stop. The service manager at Audi tells me this is normal. I believe that I am being played as the loaner cars that I have had ( same model) do not do this. Nor is this a problem that has been raised in any of the Audi forums. I would appreciate any advice you might offer. If it is a problem then how best can I approach the service manager.
I have a 98 Chevy 2500 pick-up, 4×4, 7.4l With the abs fuse out and the plow on or a trailer in tow, the steering has been locking up when I come to a stop and the brakes give a little like they dont want to stop. With the abs fuse in and the plow on or off the steering doesnt lock up but when coming to a stop the brakes loosen up at the last part of the stop, but still stop. I have recently replaced both front and back brakes, bled and rebled, replace hydro-boost unit, and replaced two bad brake lines one regular and one from the abs unit. I am comtemplating changing the powersteering pump because sometimes the steering is hard when it hasn’t warmed up enough, and the pulley has been whining even though the belt is good and tight. The abs fuse hasn’t been in for about a year cause the previous owner said he took it out cause it was better to plow with it out….but I recently put it back in cause of the steering locking up when braking….sidenote…even though I changed all the brakes, and lines, and bled, and bled, and replaced the bleeder screws it still didn’t seem like the brakes were strong enough. PLEASE any information or opinions you may have will be greatly appreciated…Thanx..JR
First I want to start off that I am ase certified tech that has been in the biz for about 20 years, but I am semi-retired now.(I just work out of my home garage now). My problem is with my own truck that i have owned since its been almost new. Its a 1994 Chevy Silverado 4×4. It has about 160,000 very reliable miles on it. The problem started about 2 years ago and I have sort of been putting off the problem with it since its not my daily driver anymore I only use it to tow my trailer with atv’s now. It had a horrible vibration when braking that I would normally associate with bad brake rotors. If I got over 50mph or so and hit the brakes it would shake and vibrate just like any other vehicle would with warped rotors.
I have a 1997 Chevy Blazer with a brake problem. The pedal hisses loudly like air is being released when I apply the brake. Also, my engine idles rough and wants to stall. I did take it into the corner shop and they say it’s a vacuum brake booster that needs replacing. My question is if you think it’s the booster or possibly a leaky hose (or both)…what’s causing the hissing sound. This problem came on suddenly, not gradually. The shop wants to charge me $775 to replace the booster….seems high to me. I priced the part and read that labor is about 1-2 hours for this job. What’s your take on this?
This is Will J. AGAIN with the 1987 Honda Accord. I was able to get a description sheet from the mechanic charging $239.12 for the collapsed caliper problem. Here is a description of the problem: Front left caliper is collapsed (suggest brake hose and caliper to repair problem) resurface rotor to eliminate vibration while driving and stopping (rotor needs to be resurfaced due to being super heated by collapsed caliper/hose) Both c.v. axles need to be replaced (boots are torn). Do you think this is a reasonable amount of money for this type of repair (I live in Alabama). The only reason I ask is b/c I just got married – and my wife is pursuing her master’s degree (therefore, she’s not working this summer). So, we’re only on one income. – and I just wanted your honest opinion on the matter. Thank you for any advice or recommendations that you have.
I’m an owner of a 1991 honda crx. I took my car to get repaired for an axle, and rotors and brake pads. I am now having a problem braking. The brake pedal goes all the way to the floor and nothing happens I have to use the emergency brake to stop.I was told by one of the mechanics that my brake line was not working correctly, then I was told that the master cylinder is the problem.