I left the lights on in my 2000 jeep wrangler and the car wouldn’t start. I jumped the car and the engine would start as long as I kept giving it gas and kept the key turned. Once I took my foot of the gas the car died again. When it was on the lights could be turned on and the radio could be turned on. Do you think I need a new battery or a new alternator? Should I try a new battery first? Thx so much
I have a 93 Toyota corolla. Replaced the alternator 4 years ago (not Toyota alternator). It died again. Toyota tells me that the only alternator that will last is theirs and that any other brand will not work for long. Is this true?
I bought a 92 Civic Si with 188K. Drove 40km everything fine then gauges went dead, engine started to bog in any gear (manual) then engine died. I was told to keep the battery disconnected because something is eating the battery power. If you wait 10min and reconnect, engine starts up again no problem, after 10 min dies again. What is this, alternator? Distributor? Or bad battery? What should I try first?
I have a 1985 BMW 318i. Refurbished the engine, but someone
put in the battery backwards before getting the car restarted. Now, Fuel, Air and Spark are all ok, it will chug with the gas from the Cold Start Injector, but won’t start. My only guess is the Injectors (new) are not getting correct signal. I’ve been working through the Bentley Service Manual, with a multi-meter, and have found the injectors’ voltage is ok, as well each is grounded ok, but there doesn’t seem to be any pulse at the injectors. All the electrical checks at each of the main electrical components seem to be ok, which Bentley tells me means I need to replace the component. I’m wondering if anyone has any
advice on which component to start on or other things to check, as opposed to trying/buying all new electronic components. Thanks for any help or advice you can give.
My situation is weird. I have a 2001 Trans Am WS6 Gen III vehicle. Sometimes it will not start even thou everything seems fine. It is shift gear (6 speed). I replaced the clutch switch and the solenoid and starter relays. When it will not start, there are no indications as to what is wrong. For instance, I do not hear the starter complaining or the solenoid spinning. It simply does not crank at all. I sometimes depress the clutch switch manually with my hands while turning the switch and the car on neutral. I suspect the clutch switch is not grounding itself properly.
I bought a 2001 Dodge Neon SE and when I don’t use it for 2 days in a row I find my battery drained and there isn’t enough juice to start the car. Could you please tell me what is draining the battery while the car is parked?
I have a 1975 Chevrolet nova and i replaced the battery a week ago. When i go to start it nothing works and the connections to the battery are fine, today i tried to jump start it and the same thing happened, nothing. before I put in this battery it would jump start with the old one too. Today I also checked the fuses and I didn’t see anything wrong. But i cant take it anywhere because I’m painting it right now but i don’t want to mess up my new engine by not starting it.
I have a question I’m hoping you can help answer. I have some auto experience, but, newer vehicles behave differently so I’m not positive. I have a 97 Safari, and started having trouble with gauges and the motor. The motor would gag and seem to quit while driving, and the gauges would go nasty haywire. The problems didn’t always happen at the same time, and never lasted more than a few seconds, then things would return to normal. One day a week or so after the first incident, it happened again, this time prolonged, off and on, for a minute or two til the van finally died and had to be towed. Initially they just replaced the battery,then later that day, I noticed the battery wasnt charging right- alternator was shot as well. I kinda guessed that but I was told at the shop it was working when they tested it. I know these newer vehicles so much relies on computer, which relies on battery/power supply. I’m assuming that if thats the case, if there is something wrong with the supply,that it can cause gauges to do funky things, like not work, give inaccurate readings etc? Assuming that, then if the supply problem is intermittent,then gauge problems can be as well? Ok, more than one question sorry….I know you are probably busy, I understand that, but even on the internet I’m having trouble finding the answers to this particular situation. Lots of general stuff,just not what I need.
I have a 1991 Mustang with a 302. As of late, the car has been hard to crank over (the starter is very slow to spin but the car still cranks over) . The battery is only 6 months old and I replaced both battery cables. Just the other day I found the car to be completely dead. The battery voltage only read 7.5 Volts with a multimeter. I took the battery in for service and the retailer charged the battery and said it checked out fine. After reinstalling the battery the car started fine. One day later, I found the battery to be low again. I jump started the car and drove it around. I checked voltage when the car was running it read 11.7 VDC. With the car running and all accessories turned off, I disconnected the negative battery cable to see if the car would continue to run on the alternator; the car immediately died. I suspect the 120K miles have taken a toll on the starter, but now I also believe I have a problem with a voltage regulator and/or alternator. Any words of advice?
I put in a new battery and the car starts fine. {’91 Chevy Cavalier} My battery light is staying on. After a few times driving the car kept stalling and needed to be jumped. Then it dies continuously. I think it may be the alternator or the voltage regulator. But, I thought the car wouldn’t start if the alternator is no good. What would you think is my best route? Also is the speeodometer partially electrical? All of a sudden it stopped working at the same time.