I have just acquired a 1994 Honda Civic and it has stopped running. It killed on me at a stop and won’t start again. it has a new battery, distributor cap and rotor. The problem is it is still not getting fire to the engine to crank it. What do you advise could be the problem?
I left the lights on in my 2000 jeep wrangler and the car wouldn’t start. I jumped the car and the engine would start as long as I kept giving it gas and kept the key turned. Once I took my foot of the gas the car died again. When it was on the lights could be turned on and the radio could be turned on. Do you think I need a new battery or a new alternator? Should I try a new battery first? Thx so much
I have an 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme 6 cylinder with 148,000 miles on it. The problem that I am having with it is it will not start without the help of starting fluid,and won’t stay running when finally started. Could this be a fuel injector problem or something of that nature? We replaced the battery,and even tried putting Heat in the gas tank to rid it of any moisture that may be in the gas tank and that didn’t even help it. Any suggestions as to what might be causing this? Thank you.
I have a 93 Toyota corolla. Replaced the alternator 4 years ago (not Toyota alternator). It died again. Toyota tells me that the only alternator that will last is theirs and that any other brand will not work for long. Is this true?
I have a 1997 Chevy Lumina car with a 3.1. The transmission is losing fluid. I took it on a trip and kept having to ad fluid to get home..What areas are bad for leaking?? I am hoping it is not at the converter?
My 2002 Ford Mustang seems to be dead. I replaced the battery and now I get power, but it’s struggling to even attempt to foll over. It clicks, but only a couple times. I can hear a hum of power within the car, but cannot get it to start.
I have a 1985 Ford F250 4×4. everything seems to be fine except the oil pressure. the pressure is fine when i first start it up and for awhile after. when the engine starts to warm up thats when the pressure gauge goes down. i checked the oil when the engine was running and when it wasn’t(hot and cold) and the oil level seems to be fine. it only starts to happen when the engine temp. gets about a 1/4 way on the gauge. then the oil gauge starts to go down and then it will go back. so basically it goes up and down. is that normal? I’m not really use to the truck since I just got it, it was my step dad’s and I got it when he past away so i can’t ask him. I know he kept it running good and everything. please help me out.
I bought a 92 Civic Si with 188K. Drove 40km everything fine then gauges went dead, engine started to bog in any gear (manual) then engine died. I was told to keep the battery disconnected because something is eating the battery power. If you wait 10min and reconnect, engine starts up again no problem, after 10 min dies again. What is this, alternator? Distributor? Or bad battery? What should I try first?
I have a Ford Fiesta Chicane that broke down a few months ago and required a new engine, so as you do when you want nothing else but to get back on the road, I purchased an engine and had it fitted by the local garage.
The “honest” mechanic got my attention because right now, I need an answer to a question pretty quick and essentially it is a yes/no type of answer.Technical particulars: I have a 1991 3.1 Buick Regal VIN T MPFI vehicle with a emission hose routing configuration of LBP. It appears GM in their wisdom made at least 15 different vacuum hose routing configuration from 1990 1994 for the Regal (also includes Chevy’s Lumina). Anyway, here is the question. To change out the “vacuum harness” (that’s what the mechanic call it, I haven’t found a vacuum harness part) you have to remove the upper intake manifold. Is this true? Is this what GM recommends? I have the vacuum diagram and it looks like to me you don’t have remove the upper intake manifold to install new hoses. Another part that was found bad was the vacuum connection part that plugs into the throttle body. Two of the three hose ports had long longitudinal cracks on the underside of the port. The reason I’m asking is because the mechanic took the upper intake manifold off and snapped off two of the bolts. He wants me to pay extra for drilling them out and installing helicoils. My position is he didn’t need to take the upper intake manifold off to replace the vacuum hoses. So, we are in a dispute and it looks like I’ll have to do the repair I towed the vehicle home. The only hose that looks a little tricky to get to is the one going to the map sensor, but it seems to be accessible to me without removing the upper intake manifold. So, what do you think?