I have a 1991 Honda Accord which I have for almost 2 years now. during the start of summer here in Atlanta, my A/C is not working. a local shop said that my condenser was damaged, since i don’t have money to pay him the labor, i bought a new condenser and drier and replaced them myself. the local shop converted my system to R134 and put some dye to detect leaks.
I have a few questions to ask you. First, I have a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder VE-V6 engine with approximately 186,000 miles. I have never had my transmission serviced. One mechanic suggested that I do not bother the transmission now since I’ve never had it serviced before. He suggested this because of the number of miles. It it not giving me any trouble. What do you suggest I do? What is necessary to maintain an automatic transmission?
I have 2003 model Nissan Pathfinder (Pathy) 77.000 km milleage (I stay in Gulf area). Just a week ago I did routine maintenance for my pathy.I change engine oil,automatic oil,gear oil,fan belt and also I changed silinder haed gasket due to small leakage.But after I run for 70 km this yellow ligth indicator ( check engine ligh) coming on even I start and again off my car several times.Dear reader please advise me what happen to my pathy, what I shuold do and can I use my car as normal condition?
I was checking out the article on How Do I Flush My Radiator and I’ll tell you why – since you asked! I recently purchased a 1996 Geo Metro so I could afford to go somewhere besides back and forth to work! We had a recent spell of very hot weather here – as did the entire nation – and my engine got a little hot one day so I decided to check and see if there was enough coolant. I can’t even see the coolant in the reservoir because there is so much gunk attached to the inside of it! It’s slimy gray gunk and I want it out of there. I’m no mechanic but I’m assuming that if it’s in the reservoir, it must be all through the system. So, do you think flushing it will clean that out?
Hi, I own a 93 Plymouth Laser and there is an annoying clicking sound which sounds like its come from inside the engine itself. The clicking sound increases as the rpm’s increase. People have told me it could be the valve (whatever that is) so could this be correct or can it be anything else?
This is Will J. AGAIN with the 1987 Honda Accord. I was able to get a description sheet from the mechanic charging $239.12 for the collapsed caliper problem. Here is a description of the problem: Front left caliper is collapsed (suggest brake hose and caliper to repair problem) resurface rotor to eliminate vibration while driving and stopping (rotor needs to be resurfaced due to being super heated by collapsed caliper/hose) Both c.v. axles need to be replaced (boots are torn). Do you think this is a reasonable amount of money for this type of repair (I live in Alabama). The only reason I ask is b/c I just got married – and my wife is pursuing her master’s degree (therefore, she’s not working this summer). So, we’re only on one income. – and I just wanted your honest opinion on the matter. Thank you for any advice or recommendations that you have.
query about my car, just bought it a week ago (used) and when being driven (even on motorways) the acceloration decreasing and the engine cuts out, it wouldnt start so i called the AA(recovery) and said there was a problem with the realy (the aa guy said it was the main relay), I had that changed and it happened today again (it cut off on the motorway) but it started fine. I also have a problem with the keys and the central locking not working, inside the key, theres a microchip that enables it to start and can cut out if not the right key. My question is, is the car stopping because of the faulty key, or it there another problem? please help, i havent a clue about cars.
When Maureen posted your site on her e-mail, one of the things that grabbed me was “how to get out of traffic tickets every time”. You see, I recently received a traffic ticket for going 3 miles over the speed limit. The officer said that I was going 15 miles over. When I asked to see the tape (thinking it was radar), he told me it was a lazer gun and he could not show me any proof. I have never heard of lazer guns and I know my speedometer only registered 3 miles more than the speed limit. Traffic school is out of the question as I received a ticket and attended traffic school 16 months ago. This one I did deserve. I plan to fight this current one in court, but, it’s going to be my word against the officer’s. I’m in So. California and most communities in my area are full of speed traps. Any suggestions? Are California traffic tickets covered in your e-book? I’ll be happy to purchase it.
I have a quick question: I brought my ’94 Volvo 850 to an indie mechanic reccomended by a friend to have my A/C repaired. After a dye check/recharge and a new accumulator, the A/C is pretty good – not as strong as my friend’s 2005 VW Passat, but I’m not about to shell out for a new compressor. My question is this – when he had my car on the lift, he brought me out to it and pointed out that both of my front brake hoses were worn down to the threads — I did see some wear on both ends where they connect. It wasn’t like they weren’t seated in there and they were still flexible, but you could see a little bit of the fiber underneath the rubber in tiny little spots around where they’re clamped on.
I have a 1998 Chevy S-10. It’s has a 4 cyl 2.2 ltr. engine in it. The transmission is automatic and was rebuilt last summer. It has approximately 95,000 miles on the odometer. It has never been used for towing anything (just so you know as much as I can think to tell you.) Four weeks ago I got in my truck and cranked it and my security light came on (it has a fuel cut-off security feature) and didn’t go off. I turned the truck off and tried to restart it. Nothing happened. I didn’t even have power to anything. No radio, no headlights, no interior lights. Nothing. I called my dad to come and help me out and he checked all the fuses and the battery and found nothing wrong. He lost a fuse and went to get a new one and while he was gone everything came back on. So I tried to crank the truck and everything died again. A few minutes after my dad came back it all came on again and I was able to crank the truck and drive home. My dad thought that maybe there was a short in my battery or something. So he said if it happened again we would swap my battery (it’s only a year old and was still under warranty). I had no trouble with it for two weeks. Everything was great. Then two days before I was supposed to leave on vacation, I was pulling into my driveway and my truck cut off. I still had power to everything, but I couldn’t get it to crank. We are at a loss. We replaced the battery. I’m getting fire to the plugs and the fuel pump is working but it won’t crank. It’s like it’s flooding out when we try to crank it. Various people have suggested the following: timing chain, cold air sensor, mass airflow sensor, distributor coil and fuel pressure regulator. How do I check these things, though? I really don’t want to have to pay $150 towing fee to move it somewhere else if I don’t have to. We want to try to find the problem and fix it ourselves.