I have a 1989 volvo 240DL wagon. It starts fine, as soon as I drive a couple miles it starts to run rough,idles rough puts out black smoke,you can smell gas fumes when it’s running like this, it also has a dead spot in the throddle when i accelerate. Then it will smooth out and run fine for awhile. I’ve tried fuel injecter cleaner, that makes no difference.
Ford Excort Silhouette Cabriolet L reg and have intermittent problems starting the car.Sometimes it can be fine for days or weeks then suddenly not start again. When this problem first starting happening about a year and a half ago I got a brand new battery and this seemed ok for a fews days then died again. My mecanic tested the battery which was found to be fine along with the altenator (also fine) and in short could not find the source of the problem so suggested it maybe electical.
I have a 2003 Olds Alero. Lately it has been hard to get the automatic transmission out of park. If I get out and rock the car just a little, then I can move the selector to reverse or drive.
I have a question about my SUV’s engine. don’t know if you can answer this kind of questions. I have a Mitsubishi Montero Sport 1998 It overheated and have to replace the engine. the engine was already burning a lot of oil. It had 215,000 miles. I am planning on repair it because the whole truck still in good conditions and I like it. I heard that an engine from the same truck Mitsubishi Montero Sport but a model 2003 will work in this truck. this engine from this 2003 model is in real good conditions. low mileage. Or it will be better to just rebuilt my original engine.
I have a 1996 ford with 120,000 miles on it. My problem is the no.2 sparkplug is covered in oil. Does this indicate a bad head gasket?
Here’s my dilemma. I drive a 1993 Pontiac Grand Am (V6, 3.3L) and I’ve noticed recently that I have very low oil pressure. When I first started noticing it, I continually checked my oil level, which has been consistantly fine, nowhere NEAR low. It finally has gotten to that point that when I accelerate, the highest it will go on the gauge is 60. When I’m braking, it’s practically at 0.
Before I had my tires rotated, my car did not pull to one side or the other. But right after my last tire rotation it began to pull to the right? Is this coincidental?
About two weeks ago, I took my well-running vehicle in for it’s 90k service at a shop near my office, which cost a few hundred dollars. Four days later, my wife is driving the car and out of nowhere the “check gages” light comes on and the temp gage is heading up fast. She pulls over to let it cool. Luckily she is very near to an auto shop run by a friend. After waiting a while to cool it down, she tries to get the rest of the way there but it stalls out within pushing distance of the shop.
2000 Kia Sportage 4dr, 5spd manual, 4 wheel drive. 187,000 almost totally trouble free miles – well not quite. Replaced entire front end 2nd winter on warranty due to faulty design of hub seal (only 1 lip) allowed water in and they rusted out. At about 100k replaced a front hub leaking vacuum. At about 160k replaced altenator, battery and front drive shaft u joint. Thats it. Oh, just put on a tail pipe, rest of exhaust system is still original. The problem first became evident 4 summers ago. It has become gradually worse. It happens ONLY when the engine idles for 5 – 15 minutes (varies) and happens more quickly when it is hot outside, i.e. summer and when the ac is running which obviously puts more heat into the engine compartment.
I have a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder. What kinds/types of gadgets and/or products are available to keep one from starting your ignition? I am aware of the Club (object one must place on top of the steering wheel). Is there something else available that is less visible? I want to stop my ex-boyfriend from starting my vehicle and taking it without permission. He doesn’t want to give me my spare keys back. Thank you for your attention and assistance.