I just had the upper and lower intake gaskets replaced, water pump and thermostat replaced, which cost me around $900. The problem is after having the car for 2 days, I noticed a slight click (not very obvious, but not present before repairs). After driving maybe 50 miles, the car cuts off while driving. I check oil and it looks dirty. Car will crank but after about a minute cuts off. Something seems fishy. What could be the explanation?
Do you have a favorite recommendation for auto insurance in Sacramento CA? I’m living on a fixed income and my car repair bills are eating me alive, figured I would take your advice and lower my auto insurance rates to help offset this expense since I can not afford a new car at the moment.
I own a 1997 BMW M3, which has been kept in good condition for several years. I recently got the opportunity to work in Germany. My location would allow me to perform some much-needed upgrades at significantly lower costs than I could ever wish for in the states. So my primary desire is to upgrade my engine. The US spec 3.2L M3 engine has about 240HP while the European spec engine has 321HP. Do you know anyone who has ever attempted such an upgrade and if you have any resources that might help me?
Recently, I took my 1996 Chevy Corsica car into Pep Boys because it began to overheat suddenly. They installed a new radiator and told me that I had a small leak in the head gasket. They said I could drive the car for a few months at least, but gradually it would lose compression. Should I just keep checking and adding coolant?
I have a 1999 GMC Sierra, 4wd. Just recently, after towing a trailer, we noticed a smell from the rear Differential. The axle housing was very hot, yet we noticed no noise that you would expect from a bad differential. We changed the fluid, and cleaned the axle housing in the process. No noticeable shavings. The old oil, however was very black, and smelled horrible. After the fluid change, we notice the oil smell is still there, and the differential gets warm. I don’t want to change the differential if it is not needed. What are your thoughts?
My daughter has a 1998 Chevy Cavalier, Z2. For some time now, it has had a slow coolant leak. Upon taking it into a local repair shop, they say that her water pump is leaking and will have to be replaced and the cost will be $600.00! Is this price reasonable?
My daughter drives a 1999 Subaru Forester. I insisted she check her antifreeze level prior to the gold weather and she stated it was mixed to -40. I also questioned her about using straight antifreeze or mixing with water. She insisted that there was a mix. She started the car and warmed it for about 20 minutes (I know, it is too long). She started to work when steam came from under the hood. She said that the overflow tank lid burst open and spewed antifreeze all over (her words). She waited a few minutes and started the car. She said that the heater took “forever to warm back up”. I ask your opinion.
My 2001 Chevy 1500 with an automatic transmission does fine until you get to 41 mph where it shifts to overdrive I guess. The RPM drop to 1100, when you speed up slowly to say 45, 46 mph it “bumps” real bad several times. I changed the fluid and filter 6 months ago at 50,000 but this has not helped. Do you have any advice?
Hey there Austin, you helped me a few months ago locate a part for my Honda Accord, now I need your help with auto insurance.
My 1996 Toyota Corolla was brought to the future shop to install a remote car starter and then everything was fine. Now 2 days after in the morning, the car would not start. I am sure that it is the alternator but I need to find out if the installation of the remote car starter could have played a part in the failing of my alternator.